
What we've come to describe as 'vintage' clothes have been in fashion in a big way since the 1970s (and longer probably, eg. see how the teddy boys adopted Edwardian garb in the 1950s...). And in that time a distinction has grown, so that items are deemed not just 'second-hand' or charity shop cast offs, but 'Vintage'.
Vintage doesn't just mean old. Like a fine wine or an aged cheddar, vintage is rare, classy and special. Vintage clothes are also frequently mid-20th century, usually dating from the 40s to the 60s. As a lover of old things in general, a raider of charity shops and hoarder of curios, I admit I have been sucked in a bit by the allure of vintage. Vintage clothes provide colourful, unique and quintessential examples of an era's particular style. They also have the aura of history about them: evocative as relic of a social past, the everyday items worn by living breathing people so long ago when we imagine people looked so different.
I went to the
Frock Me vintage clothing fair this weekend in Brighton. This event is a prime example of the frustrating nature of the vintage clothes market. Firstly, vintage clothes are now so irritatingly chic (note the website boasts Alexa Chung's new TV show inspired by the fair) that it almost makes me want to go around dressed in some kind of anti-fashion secondhand clothes... a shell suit paired with an old ladies housecoat perhaps? But there's probably a niche market for those as well.
At Frock Me most of the stalls are run by the same people who often run antique shops: vaguely arty-looking middle-aged, middle-class looking women, who in their youth probably themselves ransacked charity shops and car boot sales for their own clothes. Now what these middle-class women now do is make a fast buck by selling over-priced second-hand clothing to young people!
There has always been a market for vintage clothes, and people have always made money cherry picking 'fashionable' items and them on at profit - look at the late Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood's
'Sex' boutique established in London's Kings Road in the 1970s. However at Frock Me dresses typically cost anything from £35 to an eye-watering £100+. There's no rhyme or reason often to the pricing, a wispy cotton sun dress can sometimes cost the same as a heavy evening gown if it seems to be tapping into the right style zeigeist. And what gets me that these aren't always crisp museum pieces - on closer inspection there are often visible marks and tears, zips might be coming away, or fabric faded. The essential part of any second-hand shoppers garment check is the 'armpit inspection' (and sometimes sniff) and many of these expensive items had unsightly staining in this area too. Eeewwwww. On ebay this is often referred to as 'vintage condition' - another way of saying it will probably disintegrate within 5 minutes of wear, or walk out of your wardrobe in it's own with all the bacteria teeming around its seams.
Vintage clothes shops need to get real about this, that people shouldn't be asked to pay through the nose for clothing which is often just old in the worst sense, just because it dates back to some era which we now think is 'cool'. What also erks me is that the rise of ebay and Vintage clothes shops have thinned out the pickings at charity shops, which offers the 'thrill' of the discovery of a good piece, as well as money to charity. I'm also concerned that donations to charity shops have reduced as people choose to sell their better quality cast-offs instead.
Interestingly though, at Frock Me it wasn't that busy, many of the stallholders looked quite tired and bored, and I overheard mutterings that business hadn't been great. Well this is recession darlings! Fashionistas are vulnerable to the credit crunch too! Most people probably chose to treat Frock Me as I did, as a kind of museum visit. I enjoyed the eye candy of all those lovely fabrics, beautiful brooches and elegant hats, but I came away without regret that I hadn't splashed out £60 on a cotton sundress, even if it did have the added 'authenticity' of fag burns and 40-year-old tea stains.
(Photo credit http://www.flickr.com/photos/dustinq/558884757/)